Madam and Marlyn, her maid, often go together to the Lunch Lady’s sidewalk restaurant in Saigon. They sit on tiny plastic stools while they eat her famous noodles – different every day, and always delicious — and try to figure out the secret of her amazing soup.
The stock is rich and full of flavour — the key, the foundation, of everything she cooks. But what makes it so special?
Marlyn is tiny, and it’s easy for her to pass under the radar. Eventually she gets up and strolls casually around the cooking area peeking into the huge simmering vats of broth.
She sees chunks of fresh pineapple. Finally, they have their answer.
The resulting stock doesn’t taste remotely of pineapple, but it has a depth, richness and aroma that people travel miles to enjoy. So if you’re making Vietnamese soup noodles of any kind, try the Lunch Lady’s trick.
This is Marlyn’s version.
Lots of pork bones
Lemon grass and garlic cloves, smashed with a cleaver
Onion, roughly chopped
Star anise
Cinnamon
Black pepper
Fresh pineapple, cut in chunks
Simmer the stock for a couple of hours, and then strain it. (You might as well make lots, and freeze the surplus to use later.)
Then take as much stock as you need, and add vegetables: aubergine, okra, broccoli, green leaves, bean sprouts, whatever you like.
Prepare some noodles — flat white rice noodles are best — and put them into individual bowls.
Add the protein to the soup just before serving: thinly-sliced pork or beef, chicken or prawns.
Pour the soup over the noodles and serve with sliced red chilis and lime cheeks on the side.